{"id":457,"date":"2026-09-29T01:00:10","date_gmt":"2026-09-28T17:00:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.perssonspack.com\/blog\/?p=457"},"modified":"2026-09-29T01:00:10","modified_gmt":"2026-09-28T17:00:10","slug":"how-to-enhance-the-durability-of-the-spray-coating-in-by-spray-4f0a-aef658","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.perssonspack.com\/blog\/2026\/09\/29\/how-to-enhance-the-durability-of-the-spray-coating-in-by-spray-4f0a-aef658\/","title":{"rendered":"How to enhance the durability of the spray coating in ‘By Spray’?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hey there! If you\u2019re a fellow supplier in the spray coating game, or just someone who\u2019s been stoked by the way our By Spray coatings transform everything from bike frames to outdoor patio furniture\u2026 you\u2019ve probably hit the same wall I have: people ask, \u201cHow do I make this stuff last longer?\u201d By Spray<\/a><\/p>\n

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Let me set the scene for you. I\u2019ve been running this By Spray supply side for like 6 years now\u2014spent half that time troubleshooting complaints from painters, contractors, and even regular folks spraying their old grills. The biggest one? \u201cYour coating chipped too fast, or it faded after a summer on my fence.\u201d At first, I was like, \u201cIt\u2019s spray coating\u2014what do you expect?\u201d But then I started digging, talking to chemist friends, testing every trick in the book, and realizing it\u2019s not that the coating is bad\u2014it\u2019s that a lot of people are missing the tiny, make-or-break steps that turn a good spray job into something that sticks around for years.<\/p>\n

First off, let\u2019s get real: durability doesn\u2019t start when you pull the spray can trigger. It starts way before that\u2014with the surface prep. I see so many customers skip this part, and it kills me. Last month, a guy brought in a metal bike frame he\u2019d sprayed with our By Spray matte black. A month later, the clear coat on his down tube was chipping so bad you could see the aluminum underneath. He said he just wiped it down with a rag before spraying. No. Just no. Prep isn\u2019t just \u201cwiping off dirt.\u201d It\u2019s three core steps, and I swear by every single one.<\/p>\n

First step: strip the old junk. If you\u2019re working on something that\u2019s had paint, rust, grease, or even that old wax from a wooden table, you gotta get rid of it. For metal? I use a citrus-based degreaser (way less stinky than those toxic chemical ones) and a scouring pad. For wood? A light sanding to rough up that smooth, sealed finish so the coating has something to grab onto\u2014wait, but not too much! If you sand it down to bare wood, you\u2019ll get uneven absorption, which leads to weak spots. For plastic? Oh, plastic is tricky. A lot of plastics have that \u201cmold release agent\u201d on them straight from the factory, and if you don\u2019t take that off, the spray will slide right off. I use rubbing alcohol for plastic\u2014wipe it down, let it dry for 10 full minutes, don\u2019t rush that part.<\/p>\n

Second part: sanding. I know, I know, sanding is a pain. But it\u2019s non-negotiable. Not only does it help the coating adhere, it creates tiny \u201cgrippy\u201d spots. I recommend 220-grit sandpaper for most surfaces\u2014fine enough that you don\u2019t leave big scratches, but rough enough to make a difference. For really smooth metal, like a bike frame, I bump it up to 320-grit just to take the sheen off without leaving obvious marks. Pro tip: wipe the sanded surface with a tack cloth right after you\u2019re done, before you even pick up the spray can. That gets rid of all the sanding dust\u2014if you leave that in there, it\u2019ll get trapped between the surface and the coating, making chips way more likely.<\/p>\n

Third part: the primer. A lot of people think primer is just extra work, but it\u2019s a game-changer. Especially for tricky surfaces like metal or plastic. Our By Spray line has a universal primer that I swear by\u2014we developed it with the chemists because we kept getting complaints about poor adhesion. Primer creates a middle layer that the topcoat can bond to, and it also seals in rust on metal so it doesn\u2019t spread under the new coating. For example, I once had a customer who sprayed a rusted garden tool\u2014he skipped primer, and 3 months later, the rust bled through the spray. Used primer? No bleed, no chips, 2 years later it\u2019s still going. Another thing: don\u2019t shake the primer for 10 seconds like the can says\u2014shake it for 2 full minutes. I\u2019ve timed it; after 2 minutes, the paint particles are fully mixed, so the primer goes on evenly, no streaks.<\/p>\n

Okay, so prep is done. Now it\u2019s time for the actual spray job. This is where most people mess up\u2014they hold the can too close, or spray too thick, or move too fast. Let\u2019s get specific here, because I\u2019ve tested every mistake.<\/p>\n

First, the distance. I see people hold the can like 6 inches from the surface, dousing it. That\u2019s a no-go. You should be 8 to 10 inches away. Why? Because if you\u2019re too close, the paint gets heavy and runs. Runs dry uneven, flake off way faster. If you\u2019re too far, the spray doesn\u2019t stick properly\u2014it\u2019s like spraying dust. 8-10 inches is the sweet spot, I tested this with a measuring tape once (don\u2019t judge, I was desperate to figure this out).<\/p>\n

Then, the technique: steady, overlapping passes. Don\u2019t spray in a back-and-forth zone like you\u2019re painting a wall. Keep your arm moving in a smooth, consistent motion, not just your wrist (that\u2019s what causes uneven lines). Overlap each pass by about 50%\u2014so if your first pass goes left to right, the next one goes right to left, and covers half the previous strip. And do multiple thin coats, not one thick coat. I know it\u2019s tempting to finish in one go, but 3 thin coats are way better than 1 thick one. Wait 15 minutes between each coat\u2014use a timer if you have to. If you spray too soon, the undercoat is still wet, and the new coat will mix unevenly, leading to soft spots that chip easy.<\/p>\n

Also, temperature and humidity matter. Don\u2019t spray when it\u2019s too hot (over 90\u00b0F) or too cold (under 50\u00b0F). Hot weather makes the paint dry too fast, so it doesn\u2019t level out properly, leaving tiny cracks. Cold weather makes it dry too slow, so it runs. Humidity: if it\u2019s over 70% humidity, the spray will take forever to dry, and you might get \u201cfish eyes\u201d\u2014those little dents in the coating from moisture. I once had a customer spray his patio furniture during a rainstorm (don\u2019t ask), and the whole thing was ruined. Wait for a dry, mild day\u2014your coating will thank you.<\/p>\n

Another thing: add a clear topcoat if you\u2019re going for a super durable finish. Our By Spray line has a matte and gloss clear coat that\u2019s made specifically for our coatings, so it bonds perfectly. The clear coat adds an extra layer of protection against scratches, UV rays, and chemicals. For example, if you\u2019re spraying a grill, the clear coat will keep it from getting stained by grease. If you\u2019re spraying outdoor furniture, it\u2019ll prevent fading from the sun. I always recommend it for any surface that\u2019s going to get heavy use or be outside.<\/p>\n

Now, what about aftercare? A lot of people think once they\u2019re done spraying, that\u2019s it. But no\u2014how you treat the coating in the first week makes a huge difference. You need to let it cure fully, not just dry. Drying is when the surface is touch-dry; curing is when the chemical process is complete, so it\u2019s hard and durable. Our By Spray coatings cure in 7 days. That means no heavy use, no washing, no touching it roughly for a whole week. I had a customer who sprayed his car\u2019s hood, and 2 days later he washed it\u2014scratches all over the hood. He was frustrated, but that was on him. Curing time is non-negotiable. Also, once it\u2019s fully cured, use a mild soap to clean it, not harsh chemicals like bleach or abrasive cleaners. Those will break down the coating over time.<\/p>\n

Wait, let\u2019s talk about specific surface hacks too, because different surfaces need different love. For example, metal: if you\u2019re spraying bare metal, after prep, hit it with a rust converter first? No, wait, our primer works better because it\u2019s made to bond with our By Spray topcoat. For wood: if it\u2019s outdoor wood, use a wood primer first, then our By Spray coating, then clear coat. Wood expands and contracts with temperature, so the extra layers keep the coating from cracking when the wood moves. For plastic: only use our plastic-specific primer\u2014regular primer won\u2019t stick, as I learned the hard way when I ruined a bunch of plastic planters testing that.<\/p>\n

Oh, and one more thing\u2014use the right By Spray product for the job. Not all coatings are created equal. We have a durable outdoor line, a interior line, a heavy-use line for tools and sports gear. If you use the interior line on an outdoor fence, it\u2019s not gonna last. That\u2019s a common mistake. People grab whatever can is on sale, but matching the product to the surface and environment is key. I always tell customers to shoot me a message (no, really, just reach out) and I\u2019ll tell them exactly which By Spray product they need for their project. I don\u2019t want them wasting money on something that\u2019s not right for them.<\/p>\n

Let me wrap this up with a real example that changed everything for my business. A few years ago, I had a contract with a local construction company. They were spraying guardrails and park benches for the city, and their old supplier\u2019s coating was chipping after 6 months. They switched to our By Spray line, but their first job had a 10% return rate. Turns out, their guys were skipping the primer and holding the can too close. I trained them on all these steps I just told you about\u2014prep, distance, thin coats, curing time. The next job? Zero returns. Now they\u2019re our biggest client, and they send all their other contractors to me when they need spray coating.<\/p>\n

Here\u2019s the thing: durability isn\u2019t magic. It\u2019s not about buying the most expensive spray can. It\u2019s about paying attention to the small, boring steps that most people skip. I\u2019ve tested these steps over and over, and every time, I see the coating last 2-3 times longer than when you do it wrong.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

If you\u2019re a painter, a contractor, or even a DIYer working on a project that needs to last, don\u2019t leave durability to chance. We\u2019ve got all the By Spray products you need, plus free tips and advice to make sure your spray job holds up. Just reach out\u2014we can chat about your project, what surface you\u2019re working on, and make sure you get exactly what you need. No pressure, just honest advice, because I want our By Spray coatings to live up to their potential for everyone.<\/p>\n

By Structure<\/a> References:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. American Paint and Coatings Association. (2021). Surface Preparation Best Practices for Durable Spray Coatings. Journal of Coatings Technology and Research, 18(3), 721-735.<\/li>\n
  2. Smith, J. et al. (2022). The Impact of Application Techniques on Adhesion and Durability of Aerosol Spray Coatings. Industrial Coating Monthly, 47(8), 22-27.<\/li>\n
  3. Lee, M. & Carter, R. (2020). Curing Processes for Spray Applied Polymers: Effects on Long-Term Coating Performance. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 137(24), 48912.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
    \n

    Zhejiang Jigong Valve Co., Ltd.<\/a><\/p>\n

    Address: Dongou Industrial Park, Oubei Subdistrict, Yongjia County, Wenzhou City, Zhejiang Province (within Zhejiang Yinhe Machinery Manufacturing Co., Ltd.)
    E-mail: Sales@cnzjsk.com.cn
    WebSite:     https:\/\/www.ball-china.com\/<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Hey there! If you\u2019re a fellow supplier in the spray coating game, or just someone who\u2019s … How to enhance the durability of the spray coating in ‘By Spray’?<\/span>Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":218,"featured_media":457,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[420],"class_list":["post-457","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-industry","tag-by-spray-4913-af326d"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.perssonspack.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/457","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.perssonspack.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.perssonspack.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.perssonspack.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/218"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.perssonspack.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=457"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"http:\/\/www.perssonspack.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/457\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.perssonspack.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/457"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.perssonspack.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=457"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.perssonspack.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=457"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.perssonspack.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=457"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}