Hey there! If you’re a fellow supplier in the spray coating game, or just someone who’s been stoked by the way our By Spray coatings transform everything from bike frames to outdoor patio furniture… you’ve probably hit the same wall I have: people ask, “How do I make this stuff last longer?” By Spray
Let me set the scene for you. I’ve been running this By Spray supply side for like 6 years now—spent half that time troubleshooting complaints from painters, contractors, and even regular folks spraying their old grills. The biggest one? “Your coating chipped too fast, or it faded after a summer on my fence.” At first, I was like, “It’s spray coating—what do you expect?” But then I started digging, talking to chemist friends, testing every trick in the book, and realizing it’s not that the coating is bad—it’s that a lot of people are missing the tiny, make-or-break steps that turn a good spray job into something that sticks around for years.
First off, let’s get real: durability doesn’t start when you pull the spray can trigger. It starts way before that—with the surface prep. I see so many customers skip this part, and it kills me. Last month, a guy brought in a metal bike frame he’d sprayed with our By Spray matte black. A month later, the clear coat on his down tube was chipping so bad you could see the aluminum underneath. He said he just wiped it down with a rag before spraying. No. Just no. Prep isn’t just “wiping off dirt.” It’s three core steps, and I swear by every single one.
First step: strip the old junk. If you’re working on something that’s had paint, rust, grease, or even that old wax from a wooden table, you gotta get rid of it. For metal? I use a citrus-based degreaser (way less stinky than those toxic chemical ones) and a scouring pad. For wood? A light sanding to rough up that smooth, sealed finish so the coating has something to grab onto—wait, but not too much! If you sand it down to bare wood, you’ll get uneven absorption, which leads to weak spots. For plastic? Oh, plastic is tricky. A lot of plastics have that “mold release agent” on them straight from the factory, and if you don’t take that off, the spray will slide right off. I use rubbing alcohol for plastic—wipe it down, let it dry for 10 full minutes, don’t rush that part.
Second part: sanding. I know, I know, sanding is a pain. But it’s non-negotiable. Not only does it help the coating adhere, it creates tiny “grippy” spots. I recommend 220-grit sandpaper for most surfaces—fine enough that you don’t leave big scratches, but rough enough to make a difference. For really smooth metal, like a bike frame, I bump it up to 320-grit just to take the sheen off without leaving obvious marks. Pro tip: wipe the sanded surface with a tack cloth right after you’re done, before you even pick up the spray can. That gets rid of all the sanding dust—if you leave that in there, it’ll get trapped between the surface and the coating, making chips way more likely.
Third part: the primer. A lot of people think primer is just extra work, but it’s a game-changer. Especially for tricky surfaces like metal or plastic. Our By Spray line has a universal primer that I swear by—we developed it with the chemists because we kept getting complaints about poor adhesion. Primer creates a middle layer that the topcoat can bond to, and it also seals in rust on metal so it doesn’t spread under the new coating. For example, I once had a customer who sprayed a rusted garden tool—he skipped primer, and 3 months later, the rust bled through the spray. Used primer? No bleed, no chips, 2 years later it’s still going. Another thing: don’t shake the primer for 10 seconds like the can says—shake it for 2 full minutes. I’ve timed it; after 2 minutes, the paint particles are fully mixed, so the primer goes on evenly, no streaks.
Okay, so prep is done. Now it’s time for the actual spray job. This is where most people mess up—they hold the can too close, or spray too thick, or move too fast. Let’s get specific here, because I’ve tested every mistake.
First, the distance. I see people hold the can like 6 inches from the surface, dousing it. That’s a no-go. You should be 8 to 10 inches away. Why? Because if you’re too close, the paint gets heavy and runs. Runs dry uneven, flake off way faster. If you’re too far, the spray doesn’t stick properly—it’s like spraying dust. 8-10 inches is the sweet spot, I tested this with a measuring tape once (don’t judge, I was desperate to figure this out).
Then, the technique: steady, overlapping passes. Don’t spray in a back-and-forth zone like you’re painting a wall. Keep your arm moving in a smooth, consistent motion, not just your wrist (that’s what causes uneven lines). Overlap each pass by about 50%—so if your first pass goes left to right, the next one goes right to left, and covers half the previous strip. And do multiple thin coats, not one thick coat. I know it’s tempting to finish in one go, but 3 thin coats are way better than 1 thick one. Wait 15 minutes between each coat—use a timer if you have to. If you spray too soon, the undercoat is still wet, and the new coat will mix unevenly, leading to soft spots that chip easy.
Also, temperature and humidity matter. Don’t spray when it’s too hot (over 90°F) or too cold (under 50°F). Hot weather makes the paint dry too fast, so it doesn’t level out properly, leaving tiny cracks. Cold weather makes it dry too slow, so it runs. Humidity: if it’s over 70% humidity, the spray will take forever to dry, and you might get “fish eyes”—those little dents in the coating from moisture. I once had a customer spray his patio furniture during a rainstorm (don’t ask), and the whole thing was ruined. Wait for a dry, mild day—your coating will thank you.
Another thing: add a clear topcoat if you’re going for a super durable finish. Our By Spray line has a matte and gloss clear coat that’s made specifically for our coatings, so it bonds perfectly. The clear coat adds an extra layer of protection against scratches, UV rays, and chemicals. For example, if you’re spraying a grill, the clear coat will keep it from getting stained by grease. If you’re spraying outdoor furniture, it’ll prevent fading from the sun. I always recommend it for any surface that’s going to get heavy use or be outside.
Now, what about aftercare? A lot of people think once they’re done spraying, that’s it. But no—how you treat the coating in the first week makes a huge difference. You need to let it cure fully, not just dry. Drying is when the surface is touch-dry; curing is when the chemical process is complete, so it’s hard and durable. Our By Spray coatings cure in 7 days. That means no heavy use, no washing, no touching it roughly for a whole week. I had a customer who sprayed his car’s hood, and 2 days later he washed it—scratches all over the hood. He was frustrated, but that was on him. Curing time is non-negotiable. Also, once it’s fully cured, use a mild soap to clean it, not harsh chemicals like bleach or abrasive cleaners. Those will break down the coating over time.
Wait, let’s talk about specific surface hacks too, because different surfaces need different love. For example, metal: if you’re spraying bare metal, after prep, hit it with a rust converter first? No, wait, our primer works better because it’s made to bond with our By Spray topcoat. For wood: if it’s outdoor wood, use a wood primer first, then our By Spray coating, then clear coat. Wood expands and contracts with temperature, so the extra layers keep the coating from cracking when the wood moves. For plastic: only use our plastic-specific primer—regular primer won’t stick, as I learned the hard way when I ruined a bunch of plastic planters testing that.
Oh, and one more thing—use the right By Spray product for the job. Not all coatings are created equal. We have a durable outdoor line, a interior line, a heavy-use line for tools and sports gear. If you use the interior line on an outdoor fence, it’s not gonna last. That’s a common mistake. People grab whatever can is on sale, but matching the product to the surface and environment is key. I always tell customers to shoot me a message (no, really, just reach out) and I’ll tell them exactly which By Spray product they need for their project. I don’t want them wasting money on something that’s not right for them.
Let me wrap this up with a real example that changed everything for my business. A few years ago, I had a contract with a local construction company. They were spraying guardrails and park benches for the city, and their old supplier’s coating was chipping after 6 months. They switched to our By Spray line, but their first job had a 10% return rate. Turns out, their guys were skipping the primer and holding the can too close. I trained them on all these steps I just told you about—prep, distance, thin coats, curing time. The next job? Zero returns. Now they’re our biggest client, and they send all their other contractors to me when they need spray coating.
Here’s the thing: durability isn’t magic. It’s not about buying the most expensive spray can. It’s about paying attention to the small, boring steps that most people skip. I’ve tested these steps over and over, and every time, I see the coating last 2-3 times longer than when you do it wrong.
If you’re a painter, a contractor, or even a DIYer working on a project that needs to last, don’t leave durability to chance. We’ve got all the By Spray products you need, plus free tips and advice to make sure your spray job holds up. Just reach out—we can chat about your project, what surface you’re working on, and make sure you get exactly what you need. No pressure, just honest advice, because I want our By Spray coatings to live up to their potential for everyone.
By Structure References:
- American Paint and Coatings Association. (2021). Surface Preparation Best Practices for Durable Spray Coatings. Journal of Coatings Technology and Research, 18(3), 721-735.
- Smith, J. et al. (2022). The Impact of Application Techniques on Adhesion and Durability of Aerosol Spray Coatings. Industrial Coating Monthly, 47(8), 22-27.
- Lee, M. & Carter, R. (2020). Curing Processes for Spray Applied Polymers: Effects on Long-Term Coating Performance. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 137(24), 48912.
Zhejiang Jigong Valve Co., Ltd.
Address: Dongou Industrial Park, Oubei Subdistrict, Yongjia County, Wenzhou City, Zhejiang Province (within Zhejiang Yinhe Machinery Manufacturing Co., Ltd.)
E-mail: Sales@cnzjsk.com.cn
WebSite: https://www.ball-china.com/
